Scrambling Tips & Advice
When choosing a suitable scrambling route, in addition to the scrambling grade, take into account the weather conditions, orientation and time of the year.
Scrambling Grades
The UK Scrambling Grading system uses 4 categories:
Grade 1 Scrambles:
These scrambles will have some exposed positions, but should not require specific mountaineering skills and should be within the ability of experienced and adventurous hill walkers. They will normally be a few harder steps, where you will certainly be required to use your hands. Route finding is straight forward and ropes are not normally needed in normal conditions.
Classic examples in Snowdonia are the North Ridge of Tryfan, the very popular Crib Goch traverse to Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and Crib Lem (Llech Ddu Spur) on Carnedd Dafydd.
Grade 2 Scrambles:
These routes normally require some prior scrambling or mountaineering experience and involve longer sections of difficult ground. A rope will often be necessary in all but perfect conditions. Route finding can be difficult and escape from the route may be difficult.
Clogwyn Y Person Arete and Llechog Buttress on Crib Y Ddysgl are fine examples of grade 2 climbs.
Grade 3 Scrambles:
These scrambles will involve pitches of easy rock climbing and rope protection is often needed. The scrambler will need a solid knowledge of rope techniques in order to build anchors, place progress protection and, if necessary, set up an abseil. Dry conditions may be essential. These routes are often hard to escape.
Milestone Buttress approach to Tryfan, the Tryfan Bach Approach on Little Tryfan and Cneifion Arete are classics at this grade.
Scottish Grade 4 + 5:
Scrambles at these grades should only be undertaken by the most experienced of scramblers with a strong background of mountaineering skills. The routes will be serious, exposed and involve climbing steep rock; it will often be necessary to climb sections rock at Very Difficult (VD) rock climbing grade. Ropes, mountaineering and rock climbing equipment are mandatory.
In North Wales, the West Peak via Bilberry Terrace on Lliwedd -on the Snowdon mountain range-is a perfect example of this grade - a long, inescapable route with 300m of climbing.
Route finding
Good route finding is essential to enjoy a safe day in the mountains. The route finding begins at home with your guide books, maps and the web. These tools will give you a good overview of not only how to approach, find and climb the route, but also the location of escape routes, timings and objective dangers.
These observations can help you in several ways: once you start climbing the route your whole perspective changes and becomes very foreshortened plus it is often hard to see very far ahead. The landmarks that you noted earlier can help stay on route in highly featured terrain or if the visibility deteriorates.
Locating the start of some scrambling routes can be fairly tricky. If you are nearby the scramble, and are looking for the exact starting point, look for signs of travel: small cairns and polished, clean rock are good identifiers.
When planning a scrambling day bear in mind that south facing routes will dry faster than north facing routes and buttresses will dry faster than gullies.
Whilst approaching the scramble it is worth taking the time to locate obvious landmarks both on the rock route, on the approach and in the general mountain area. Take out the guide and locate the position of your route from a distance.
Once you are at the top and need to go back down, the information on the terrain you memorised earlier will give you valuable pointers and markers for the descent, especially when descending in bad weather.
Once on the route, always look ahead, move carefully and test holds before pulling hard on them. Looking ahead is important to avoid getting into blind alleys that force you to retreat. Keep an eye at all times on the easiest line of ascent. Moving steadily and carefully without jerking reduces the chances of slips, lets you focus on the ground ahead and pick a good line. Always test rock flakes and rock spikes before pulling on them. You should ensure they are solid - tap them (hard) with you the palm of your hand and- if they sound hollow or move- avoid using them.
If the way is blocked by an excessively hard section, look for alternative routes and try to skirt around the difficulties. Scrambling routes often offer several options - try to follow the most climbed lines of ascent; these are often identified by areas of worn rock. Most popular scrambles will generally have some signs of previous travel. You should be looking for the normal or easiest way, avoiding ground with loose rock and lots of vegetation.
It is best to only attempt tricky sections if you feel you can confidently climb them down; otherwise your options for retreat may become a lot more limited. In general, it is easier climbing up than down.
How to deal with tricky steps
Scramblers working as a team can reduce the seriousness of a tricky step by careful spotting, grabbing and fielding. It should be emphasised that if a slip or fall is likely in an exposed situation, it is time to rope up and protect the climbers by construction a solid anchor and placing protection.
'Spotting' is when the second climber stands below the leader climber on the ground -or on a safe platform- with the aim the stopping the leader from falling. This can be achieved by keeping the leader pushed onto the wall or -if they do fall- by stopping them from going too far or hitting their head.
Once over a tricky section, the first climber(s) can offer others advice and if need be can give support by grabbing a shoulder strap or jacket thus stopping any slip becoming a fall. The grabber should always be well braced and well balanced whilst other members of the team can help by holding the grabber in position.
The grabber should avoid linking hands with the second scrambler as this reduces their grip and balance and can result in both being pulled off.
When spotting or grabbing becomes useless a rope can be invaluable; normally scramblers use 30m to 50 m of 9mm dynamic rope.
Rates per person
The course price depends on the ratio of clients to instructor.
Half Day
Ratio 1:1
£150 per 1/2 day
Ratio 2:1
£95 per 1/2 day
Ratio 3:1
£75 per 1/2 day
Ratio >6:1
£60 per 1/2 day
Full Day
Ratio 1:1
£220 per day
Ratio 2:1
£120 per day
Ratio 3:1
£95 per day
Ratio >6:1
£75 per day
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