Getting your basic climbing kit
In the UK most climbing equipment is classified as 'Personal Protective Equipment'. It must be tested and meet certain safety standards set out by the European Union and the UIAA -the International Association of Alpinism-. Look for this safety label as well as the 'CE' mark.
We recommend you use climbing equipment from respected brands, who have good quality control systems.
Rock Climbing harnesses
Do you need to buy your first climbing harness? We recommend that you go to a good climbing shop, find a member of staff who climbs regularly, try a few harnesses on and hang in them. If the shop does not have any staff that climb or does not have a place to hang in the harness, walk out and find another climbing shop.
A climbing harness essential features are:
- Padding: a rock climbing harness should be padded on the waist and legs because this feature offers more comfort when you are hanging in it - the actual comfort will depend on the amount of padding, the quality of the padding and its shape / size - hence the need for the hanging point.
- Good fit: try the harness with both thin and thick clothing to check it will fit you in both warm and cold conditions.
- Correct rise:check that the harness rise (distance between the crotch and waist) is correct and that it is not too short and drags down the front of the waist belt.
- Symmetry: check that the harness sits symmetrically on you i.e. gear lops are evenly positioned on both sides.
- Gear loops: there should be a minimum of 5 gear loops if you intend climbing outside; they should be positioned so that you can access them easily and should not hang so far forward that gear constantly falls into your lap.
- Adjustable: this is a question of personal preference. Most beginners go for a fully adjustable harness, with buckles on the waist and each leg because this allows fitting clothing for different seasons. Many climbers move to fixed legs with an elastic section as they progress.
Rock Climbing shoes
Rock shoes allow the climber to stand on smaller foot holds with more security and they are a crucial part of all climber's equipment. Learning to use you feet well and trusting them on all types of holds is a totally essential skill.
Buying climbing shoes for the first time is difficult; take your time doing this. Nothing will improve your climbing more than finding a shoe that fits your foot, fits your style of climbing and that you trust.
Tips for choosing your first pair of climbing shoes
- Try several different models and sizes first: avoid buying on line for your first pair of shoes. Go to a specialist shop, ask for advice to a knowledgeable member of staff and try many different models to see which one feels best.
- Snug fit: your toes should touch the end of the shoe, they should be comfortably tight and if you twist the shoe your foot should twist with it without any slippage.
- Test them in small footholds: the climbing shop should have a few footholds mounted on the wall. Make sure you test the shoes in the smallest footholds they have to see how the shoe feels when standing on small edges and rounded features.
- All round design: it might be tempting to choose an advanced, performance shoe, but their asymmetric shape and down-turned soles will make then uncomfortable and difficult to use effectively until you have more experience. Climbing shoe design is very sophisticated and shoes are designed for specific types of routes or styles of climbing.
- Comfort: those new to rock climbing should look for comfortable, all round shoes that are well built and don't compromise on performance.
- Possible stretch: once you have your perfect fit, bear in mind that most climbing shoes will stretch to a certain degree. Walking in your new climbing shoes at home before climbing will help to wear them in.
Climbing & Scrambling Helmets
There has never been as much choice as there is today, but the key factor is that the helmet you choose must suit your head shape and size. There is no real alternative to trying on a selection of helmets in a good store and seeing which fits best – once adjusted securely on your head try to make it move out of position; if it slips backwards or is easily knocked askew then look at another model. If you are planning to climb alpine/winter routes then remember to also try the helmet whilst wearing your beanie or balaclava.
The construction of a helmet is the main factor that determines its overall performance and intended end use. There are 3 main types of helmet construction:
- Hard shell helmets: these helmets have an internal webbing cradle that holds the hard, stiff shell away from the head. In an impact the cradle webbing stretches, absorbing a lot of the energy of the impact whilst the shell also absorbs energy by deforming. This style of helmet often has the best top impact and penetration resistance plus they are generally durable and tough. The downside of this design is the extra weight, mediocre side impact performance and a helmet that sits higher on the head. These features make them popular for those who give their helmet a lot of abuse (group users) and for those whose main source of danger is likely to be falling debris - alpine/ice climbers and mountaineers.
- EPS – Expanded Polystyrene Foam: their shells are made from in-molded polystyrene. These helmets are often 40% lighter than traditional shell/cradle helmets, sit lower on the head (i.e. you bump your head less on the rock) and have improved side impact resistance. They generally offer less top impact performance, but most importantly are less durable. After one big impact and they should be replaced. These features make them excellent for general rock climbing in less remote environments where the emphasis is protecting the user in a fall rather than on-going protection against rock fall.
- Hybrids: these have plastic shells with shock absorbing inserts. Most popular helmets combine design ideas from both types to give climbers several good features. These helmets tend to be more durable and versatile than the EPS style.
Climbing ropes
- indoor climbing: you can choose a specific, short and not dry treated rope. 'DMM Statement' 10 mm in 30m or 40m lengths is a good choice. It can be used for both leading and top-roping short routes outside.
- sport climbing outdoors: I would go for a 'Mammut Crag' 70 or 80m, with a diameter 9.5mm or 9.8mm. Choose ropes with 'dry cover' to limit water absorption.
- trad climbing: 'dry cover' is essential. You can get by with a single rope on easy short climbs but you will need two half ropes as you progress. I recommend 2 x 'Beal Cobra', 50m with a thickness of 8.6 mm.
Belay devices
There are several types of belay devices but they all need to be compatible with the diameter of your rope. The main 2 types are:- Rope controllers with manual braking: these work by bending the rope creating an 'S' shape which results in friction on the device and its carabiner. This allows the belayer to hold a fall and lower the climber in a controlled way. These rope controllers are good for types of climbing, light and relatively inexpensive. As an example, the 'DMM Mantis' is good for all-round use on ropes 7.3 mm to 11mm, whilst the guide plate 'DMM Pivot' are for skinnier ropes 7.3 mm -9.2 mm in half/twin ropes and from 8.7mm to 10 mm single ropes.
- Locking carabiners for manual braking belay devices: the 'DMM Belay Master' is great when you are starting out as this carabiner can't invert or cross-load. The 'DMM Cero' also minimises the risk of cross loading and it is very easy to operate with one hand. The 'DMM Ultra O' screwgate also works really well because it is well rounded, strong and symmetrical.
- Mechanically assisted braking devices: these offer additional braking power by pinching the rope in the event of a fall. A well known example is the Petzl Gri-Gri which is is good for indoor climbing and outdoor sport climbing. These devices are more specific and less versatile. In general, you should not use them for trad climbing and bear in mind that you will not be able abseil easily with double ropes.
Rates per person
The course price depends on the ratio of clients to instructor.
Half Day
Ratio 1:1
£150 per 1/2 day
Ratio 2:1
£95 per 1/2 day
Ratio 3:1
£75 per 1/2 day
Ratio >6:1
£60 per 1/2 day
Full Day
Ratio 1:1
£220 per day
Ratio 2:1
£120 per day
Ratio 3:1
£95 per day
Ratio >6:1
£75 per day
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