Climbing glossary
Below there is a list of the most common words and phrases that climbers use to describe equipment, rope techniques and rock features.
Glossary A-G
ABSEIL:- also known as "rappel"- to descend independently using a rope and a descender device. It is also possible to use just the rope round your body. This is called a "classic" abseil.
ARETE: a ridge or rib, an outward pointing bit of rock the opposite of a corner.
ASCENDER: a device for climbing the rope when all else fails, or even, occasionally, by design. May be a simple prusik or a mechanical device.
BELAY (verb: "to belay"): to protect another climber by preventing the rope from slipping; either with a belay device or with a body belay.
BELAY (noun; "a belay"): a place where you attach yourself to the rock. Usually it involves many independent connections to the rock that can bear a shock load of one or both climbers falling off.
BELAY DEVICE: a rope controller or piece of climbing equipment which you use to control the rope when belaying. Belay devices include "belay tubes" (many brands), the Figure eight, the Gri-gri, and some other innovations like the assisted braking devices.
BODY BELAY: a belay performed by wrapping the rope around the body to provide friction should the climber fall.
CLOVE HITCH: an adjustable knot extremely useful for climbers. It is a twin loop knot, used when the force exacted on each side of the knot is considered to be equal.
CORNER: the inverse of an arête; like the crease of an open book.
CRACK: a split or fissure in the rock face. Horizontal cracks are known as breaks; wide cracks may be off widths or chimneys.
CRAG: a rock face or any large expanse of rock.
CHIMNEY: crack wide enough to fit your whole body into.
CRIMP: a small hold onto which you can just get the ends of your fingers.
DEAD ROPE: the slack rope from the belay device, as opposed to the Live Rope on the other side of the belay device that goes to the climber. It is critical that at least one hand is firmly kept on the Dead Rope at all times
.GRADE: how difficult it is the climb.
GRI-GRI: a belay device which automatically locks when the leader of a climb pulls very hard on the rope.
Glossary F - L
FIGURE OF EIGHT: the most commonly used knot to attach a climber to the rope. It is a re threaded figure of eight which is strong, unlikely to slip, easy to teach and learn, and easy to see when it is tied wrongly.
FLAG: to stick a foot out sideways for balance, especially when stopping yourself from swinging sideways.
FLAKE: a partially detached section of rock which will often yield good holds along its detached edge.
HEX: an hexagonal-shaped aluminum piece of protection.
HOLD: any feature of the natural rock face which assists the climber's progress.
ITALIAN HITCH: a knot used to belay or abseil. Also known as a Munter hitch. Recommended when you have dropped your belay plate down the crag. Not recommended for multiple abseils as it twists the rop.
LEADER: the person going up the route first and who is followed by "the second".
LEAD CLIMBING: to climb placing protection while making progress.
Glossary N - P
MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING: a climb that is done in 2 or more parts. The climbers re-unite at the top of each section before starting the new 'pitch'.
NUT: a metal wedge threaded on steel wires, intended to go into cracks and stay there for the climber's protection.
NUT KEY: thin tool with a hooked end used by a second for removing gear, especially nuts, stuck into cracks.
PITCH: a section of a climb, or the whole thing. Some climbing is "single-pitch" -only one section- and some is "multi-pitch" -several sections-. Both versions require a good belay top anchors; multi-pitch routes require good belay anchors between pitches.
PLACEMENT: the place in the rock face (or sometimes things like trees growing off it) where protection is actually placed.
PROTECTION: also known as gear, the devices that climbers use to prevent themselves from hitting the ground in a fall.
PRUSIK: (noun) a piece of cord which is wound around the rope and grips when weighted. Can be used as an ascender or to safeguard an abseil.
Glossary Q to Z
QUICKDRAW: a connector between the rope and the protection. Two snap-gate carabiners linked by a short sling equals one quickdraw. Used to connect protection to the rope when leading a traditional route, or to clip bolts when sport climbing.
SECOND: the person who belays the leader, and follows a the climb taking their protection on the way up. Being the second is generally less dangerous than leading, because you have a rope above you; except on traverses, when it can open you up to big swings if you fall off and the leader has not put in enough protection.
SINGLE-PITCH climbing - a climb that is done in one section.
SMEARING: the technique of using the flat soles of the feet to apply direct pressure onto the rock where only extremely small holds or no holds at all exist.
SPORT CLIMBING: climbing on rock faces that have drilled bolts.
SPRING LOADED CAMMING DEVICE: Cams; an SLCD has 4 lobes which are forced against the rock to create friction by a pull applied to the trigger. In smaller versions, they can have 2 or 3 lobes, instead of 4.
STOPPER KNOT: or just 'stopper'; a knot in the tail of a rope that prevents it from slipping through and keeps it out of the way. Used after tying the rope to your harness with a figure of eight.
TRADITIONAL climbing: where the leader places the protection on the rock as they go up, there are no fixed bolts on the rock.
TRAVERSE: to move across the rock, left, right or possibly diagonally in either direction, rather than directly upwards.
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