Snowdon via the North Ridge - Jammed Boulder Gully and Crib Goch

 

Crib Goch is one of the best scrambles in Britain, but can become a little too popular as a result. The North Ridge routes allow an alternative approach to the classic, pinnacled ridge that avoids the crowds on the standard route. The rock quality is generally good and drains well, although the North Ridge tends to dry slower after rainfall and Jammed Boulder Gully in particular can stay damp longer than expected.

The approach is made from the Cromlech boulders in the Llanberis pass from where we will head up to the popular climbers cliffs of Dinas Mot. Once below the central slabs, we head right to cross a stile before continuing around to the first large in cut in the face, where a well defined buttress of rock protrudes. Jammed Boulder Gully is the left hand gully that defines the buttress and can be recognised by the large block jammed halfway up.

Enter the gully and climb up steadily on good holds to the large jammed block that halts progress. Pass the block on its left hand side, then move left onto an obvious, undercut, slab. Protection is available here using slings placed around various jammed rocks -and it is advisable to use it as the initial moves on the slab are hard-.

Climb through the large gap in the boulders above to emerge into a large bay. Continue up above the bay on the right hand rib on good rock, but with difficult scrambling that is close to the border between scrambling and rock climbing. Once past this move up to a final large jammed block. Climb up through the gap between jammed boulders to emerge on easier ground and an obvious eastwards line that leads to up to the main North Ridge Route. Continue ahead to join the main Crib Goch ridge close to the summit.

 

 

 

Snowdon via Clogwyn Y Person Arete

This is one of the classic scrambles of Snowdonia that rivals Crib Goch as the best way of climbing Snowdon.It is a perfect mountaineering day with an alpine feel.

The route involves a long walk in from the Llanberis Pass, but in return you get freedom from the Crib Goch masses on a route that lets you decide for yourself just how hard you want it to be.

The scramble follows a superb natural line on good rock and even gives a choice of starts at either grade 2 or grade 3. The route starts from the Cromlech boulders in the Llanberis Pass - we pass through the grounds of the Climbers Club hut and head steadily upwards through Cwm Glas Mawr.

At the head of the cwm we follow the obvious stream up into Cwm Glas itself before following the stream to the left and a small lake. The fine ridge line of Clogwyn Y Person Arete is now un-missable, dominating your view to the left. Once up close you can see that the tip of the nose is detached - the Parsons Nose.

There are 2 starts - the Western Gully is a grade 2, whilst the right wall of the Parson's Nose gives a better, but harder grade 3. These both lead to the top of the nose. The route now follows the blunt crest of the ridge over a series of blocks - we avoid heading too far out to the right, particularly in the early stages or we could easily end up on rock climbing territory. It is best to take the ridge as directly as possible and this has the advantage that the harder sections also have better quality rock.

The early section of the scramble features a series of short, steep walls interspersed with ledges, however the route is well protected and the trickier sections all seem to have convenient cracks that take wires or hexes for protection. The angle slowly eases as we gain height and the rock becomes interspersed with ever larger scree platforms until we eventually break out onto the broad Crib Y Ddysgl ridge. Once here we go straight on along the well trodden path over Garnedd Ugain to reach the path on to the Snowdon summit.

 

 

 

Scrambling Equipment supplied by Rock Climbing Company: We will provide all the technical equipment you will need for tackling any of Snowdon's scrambling routes - this includes climbing ropes, climbing hardware, plus a helmet and harness for each client.

What you need to provide: The Snowdon massif is an exposed place with weather that can vary between extremes very quickly - it is best to come prepared for all eventualities - prepare for wind and rain and hope for sun and a cooling breeze.

Thus you should bring warm clothing and a full set of waterproofs (top and trousers) and hats and gloves - hats and gloves are great temperature regulators that allow you to stay comfortable without constantly stopping to put on and take off clothing.

Choosing the correct footwear is also important - your boots should ideally be a 3-4 season mountain boot or a dedicated scrambling boot that have a rigid sole that can stand on small foot holds without bending or rolling off the hold.

Approach shoes are great for moving fast, but you do run the risk of turning an ankle more easily, whilst soft trainers are a bit of a liability that promise wet feet, twisted ankles and poor climbing ability

You will also need a 30 - 40 litre rucksack plus food and drink for the day.

If it looks as if the sun will come out then don't forget the sun screen as you can burn easily up high and the cool winds will disguise the fact that it is happening until it is too late.

What is not included. Prices do not include, transport, accommodation, meals or personal insurance.

Ratios and course sizes. Scrambling instruction can be arranged for an individual at a 1:1 ratio, but this does limit some of the things that can be taught practically i.e. when the instructor is teaching the client how to belay, it is best if there is a third person scrambling on the end of the rope for it to be a realistic exercise.

If you wish to tackle some of the more challenging scrambles the best guided ratio is 1:1 or 1:2.

Guiding on Crib Goch is one of the very few courses that can be stopped by bad weather, especially high winds - if we feel it is unsafe to do the route we will, of course, offer an alternative route or arrange a new date.

The full terms and conditions are on the booking page