Leading your first routes can often feel daunting because making that transition from seconding rock climbs to leading them is a big step that requires extra commitment and skills.
The additional confidence gained from leading your first rock climbs with an instructor by your side often makes the experience enjoyable rather than traumatic.
The aim of the Learn to Lead Climb course is to help you make that step towards leading your own rock climbs independently and safely. The instruction runs on a 1:2 ratio and the days will be carefully tailored to suit both your abilities and your aspirations.
Initially we make sure you have the basic techniques needed to keep you and your partner safe whilst leading; then we will look at your current climbing skills and ensure that your gear placing abilities are up to scratch - solid nut, sling and cam placements are key to inspiring confidence when on the lead. We will then run through the various scenarios that can occur when leading your first pitches and together we will choose some routes for you to climb.
All the climbing instruction is based on progressive teaching and we normally try to spend both days climbing on multi-pitch crags.
In order to get the most from this Learning to Lead course you should already be able to second routes competently and be able to belay your partner from both above and below. The emphasis is about getting you leading and doing all your own rope work, whilst we supervise everything closely – in fact, we are often right by your side on a fixed static line.
Learning to Lead Course Outline:
- Essential crag skills - belaying, communication, rope work
- Choosing routes and understanding guidebook terminology
- Getting organised for the lead - the importance of choosing the correct rack, racking your gear correctly and evaluating the climb. The 'rack' is the collection of climbing hardware carried on your harness or bandolier that you use to protect the climb.
- Clipping the rope efficiently and safely into carabiners and quickdraws.
- Placing protection - using cams (4CU's, Friends and Camalots), wires (Wallnuts and Rocks) and hexes and how to make a climb as safe as possible. There are lots of sneaky tricks available here that make climbing a lot more fun.
- Anticipating hazards and dealing with them
- Constructing and managing safe stances and belays.
- Falling.
- Retreating down a crag
- Emergency Procedures
A Learn to Lead Climb course ideally lasts two or three days and runs on a ratio of 1:2. This is because the climbing instructor often needs to be on a static rope jumaring alongside the leader, advising them on the options available, checking the gear placements and ready to step in if the leader finds the route too difficult. Thus it is best if the leader has a separate, competent belayer looking after their ropes.
We can provide all the technical climbing equipment for the course and have an extensive collection of hardware if you want to try different racks during the course
Dates, venues and duration of all of the climbing courses are by arrangement and totally customisable. Please do not hesitate to get in touch to discuss your requirements.