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St. Anton - Malaga - Climbing Guide + Topos

 

 

St Anton Area 1 Pinnacle

 

 

 

St. Anton - Climbing in Malaga

 

St. Anton WNW

 

St Anton de Pinares is located on the outskirts of Malaga and consists of two crags with quite different features, however they both share the sea views and the exceptional weather that Malaga receives. Even when it is raining and cold twenty miles inland it can be warm and sunny at Malaga.

The two crags can be refered to as St Anton West and St Anton South East.

St Anton West is the larger of the two crags with routes from 15 to 35m long and is descibed below.

The main orientation of St Anton West is westwards and so the crag is good when the sun is strong, The rock varies a lot in quality, however all the established climbs are solid. The climbing varies from steep slabs and walls on well featured grey rock to pumpy numbers on unusually compact orange rock. The grades are well spread and range from 6a to 7c.

It is a pretty good crag for airport days because the parking spot is pretty remote on a single track dirt road and the car can be seen from the crag, The airport is about 15 - 20 minutes from the crag.

The topos below outline the routes in the various sectors.

 

 

Sectors

St Anton - Area 2

St Anton Climbing Area 2
Grades
6a+ to 8?
Height of Routes
18 - 35m
Orientation
West and North West
Approach
5 - 10 minutes
Rock
Limestone

Areas 3 + 4

St Anton Climbing Area 2
Grades
6a to 8?
Height of Routes
18 - 25m
Orientation
West and North West
Approach
10 minutes
Rock
Limestone

Area 5

St Anton Malaga Climbing Area Topo
Grades
6b to 7a
Height of Routes
15 - 25m
Orientation
SW
Approach
10 minutes
Rock
Limestone

Area 6

Malaga Climbing Topo
Grades
6c+ to 7b
Height of Routes
20 - 27m
Orientation
SW
Approach
10 minutes
Rock
Limestone

Area 8

Malaga Climbing Information
Grades
6b to 7b
Height of Routes
35m
Orientation
N
Approach
15 minutes
Rock
Limestone

 

 

 

Climbing in Malaga - Map

 

The map below outlines the routes to and the position of a couple of the best climbing venues in Malaga.

St Anton has a couple of good crags that get the best of the local weather. The crags are located above a very exclusive housing estate with its own private security - you need to drive through this estate to access the crags and you have to drive past at least one security point so don't look too scruffy - but it does make everything safer for airport days.

Torcalito is just a bit of good fun - a bit like the steep bit of Rubicon in the Peak. Small, but offering lots of arm wilting bouldering and some short, bouldery routes. It is also pretty rainproof. It is a very sociable place and so please be friendly to the local climbers and say a few words to them.


View Larger Map

 

Directions to the St. Anton crags.

Both crags are situated on the east side of Malaga and are accessed from the A7/E15 motorway that runs along the coast.

Coming from the West/Central Malaga exit at junction 246a (Palo - JS Elcano) and if you are coming from the East / Motril / Almeria then exit at junction 246. Head inland towards Pinares St. Anton and into the St Anton residential area

The map in the section to the left should be fairly self explanatory, but these words may also help.

St Anton de Pinares W.

St Anton right hand side

Coming from West/Central Malaga leave the A7/E15 at 246a and at the roundabout head left (zero the taco) towards Pinares St Anton on a road that becomes Av. de San Isidro.

If coming from the East come off at 246 and at the end of the slip road (zero the taco) turn right onto Av. de San Isidro.

The descriptions are now the same the same.

Wind into the St Anton residential estate. Continue on the main road - initially Av. de San Isidro and then this becomes Av. de St. Anton - until Calle de los Almendros splits away to the left. This is marked with a dead end sign. This is 650m from the roundabout on the 246a exit and 550m from the slip road on the 246 exit.

After 350m take the road that veers away from the houses into the hills. Go past the Parque El Lagarillo Blanco Baja sign and continue into the hills until turning left on to a dirt track at the Parque El Lagarillo Blanco Alta sign.

Continue on the dirt track either to a large round parking area at the top of a long straight incline or continue further on rough tracks for another 600 odd metres until below the crag. There is parking here for 3 or so cars - you can see the cars from the crag and the track is pretty remote so stuff in the car should be safe(ish), but no guarantees...

Above the furthest parking spot there is flat spot with a single large tree. Access the crag from here, heading up via the free standing pinnacle with the splitter crack that lies on the right of the crag. The best track stays just to the left of the natural drainage channel that runs down from the right side of the crag. 10 minutes to the crag.

St Anton de Pinares SE

Fire Warning Sign

This one is easier. Once into the St. Anton estate stay on the Av. de San Anton and wind upward through the estate, past a strange section where they separate the lanes to a small roundabout that you go straight across. 200m past the roundabout there is a barriered, dirt vehicle track that cuts sharply back and left into the trees away from the continuing tarmac road. There is a fire warning sign at the start of the track and this is the easiest identifying feature as you wind up the road.

Park somewhere near here and then walk up the dirt track into the woods. At the top of the initial incline follow the track as it cuts back right - the track gradually fades and there is some narrow scree above on the right you that seems to be the way of least resistance. Ignore this and carry on in the direction of the track for a few metres to pick up a narrow, but well defined track that leads up and left to the crags. There is a 'No Rubbish' sign at the start of the narrow track.

Don't leave rubbish The track leads in 5 minutes to the left hand side of the crag and a buttress of short 5's.

The crag is above some rather exclusive houses with, no doubt, fairly influential owners. The noise from the crag carries straight down into their houses and so please make an extra effort to keep a low profile here.

 

 

 

 

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